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THE FOLLOWING FILE IS NOT TERMINATED & EVEN NEEDS SOME
TRANSLATION, BUT SOON WILL BE DONE ASAP IN HYPERTEXT AND
WITH PIX WHEN NEED BE SO PLEASE BARE WITH ME TILL  THEN,
MUCH  INFORMATION CAN BE  USED MEANWHILE  FOR  YOUR
ENJOYEMENT OR PLEASURE. MEANWHILE IF YOU HAVE ANY TIPS FOR
ME SEND THEM UP BY E-MAIL TO: richard@io.org


1)   ESTIMATE / LOG-BOOK/ STEP MEASURING

#ESTIMATE#:

In  a survival situation before leaving a spot, REMEMBER
that  is also  IMPORTANT  to note the time, distance of your
path,  trip, just as much as to maintain a straight course
on your goal.

LOG BOOK:

A  Journal  well detailed and chronological becomes
ESSENTIAL  to the  success  of  Sailing by #estimate # but
also  to  Survival itself.

For  centuries  Sailors have use the sailing by #estimate#
to direct  their ship when they see no coast or when the
weather  is bad. This method is also used for land travelling.

Moving  upon  land  MUST be carefully planed. One  MUST know
if possible,  for sure or at least approximately his
starting  point as well as his destination.

And  if  one has a map, these #points# will be shown as well
as worthy  landscape  information.  Those  #points# when
perfectly identifiable become that many control points. When
you  have  no map, this specific sight is  done #point  by
point# on a piece of paper.

The  scale  used  MUST permit to draw all the path  on  the
same sheet.  The  Northern  direction well established,  the
starting point  and  destination will be pointed, noted in
exact  relation with one another.

If  the terrain allows it the ideal direction would be a
straight line uniting the starting and ending point but this
is rarely the case.

The  trip  is usually done in many portions and steps  using
the Azimuth  (angle in degree) (see compass file *) and this
Azimuth is taken & determined at the start of the first trip

One  start to measure from his starting point all the way to
next point or change of direction. Then a new Azimuth is taken 
for the 2nd step and the distance  is measured till the other 
goal or change of direction, etc.

EVERY READING MUST BE VERY CAREFULLY REGISTERED and all
positions well entered and described.

STEP MEASURING:

To  establish  the  distance made the step is the  best unit
to measure which is approx. 30 inches.

The  steps  are usually counted in 100 being easier to
calculate and noted on a string and or in the Log-Book, or
by small pebbles in your pants, etc.

Those  distances are of course approximate but will do the
trick but with practice they become more and more precise.

MEASURING STEP + OR - :

For anyone in survival it is important to predetermined
ahead the average  length  of  his  step in inches  or  foot
the  distance travelled in 10 steps then to divide it by 10
= your step size.

On the terrain the account of the average step MUST be
verified & checked according to the following conditions:

Slope or Inclinations:

The steps are longer going down, shorter = up.

Wind: Against the wind steps are shorter, with wind  = longer.

Surface:  Sand, gravel, mud all alike surfaces = shorter steps.

Weather:  Snow, rain or ice = shorter steps.

Clothing: Too heavy = shorter steps.

Different  Shoes:  can also affect the traction and
consequently the length of steps, Endurance & Resistance.

Fatigue: Make  us crawl at time.

#POINTS DE REPERE# *:

It is any objects well defined, seen, and located on the
terrain, or  ground  in  the direction that we want to
follow  and  toward which a sailor sails for.

It is easier to move around by using these #point de repere#
than to constantly use the compass orientation.

NUMBER EVALUATION:

How many trees are in an orchard or persons in a room? You
count quickly  how many items in 1/4 or 1/10 of the area
then  multiply by the total surface in order to get a good
approximate.

EVALUATIONS:

To master your path in an unknown land it is not enough to
have a sense of directions but also have the sense of distances.

It  is not enough to locate correctly the stars and where
you are but also to be able to measure the trip to travel.

Evaluate the importance of an obstacle, to estimate the
height of a slope and its steepness and the variation of a
road angle.

It  is  good to be able to measure distance on a map but
only  if you  have  sufficient ability to evaluate
dimensions so that  you can correctly be capable to
represent what your measures will  be once applied to the
terrain.

Once  MUST also REMEMBER that the habit to evaluate all type
of height  is  absolutely needed in survival & rescuers. Not
only to establish an optical system for signals but also to
establish  projects to build a small bridge or simply to
divide rations.

First  thing to do is to create the habit to know your
personnel measurements  (check  it every 6 month for kids)
thus  you  will carry  on  you  your  personnel  measuring
rulers  without  ever forgetting them home. Now to establish
your steps see above.

Then  you  MUST retain the dimensions of the things that
surround you;  to  evaluate the dimensions of a house with
or  no  stories know  the usual height of phone pole and of
trees of same species or not that have the same height.

Then  you MUST try to have a compass eye. It is not to get
mixed up  in complicated procedure but to acquire with
training a  sure and quick judgement.

The  eye  compass  or nose sight is a result  of  long habit
to evaluate  and measure coming from a long training.

DISTANCE APPEAR LONGER:


Than  they are in reality when the terrain is accidented
& rough. If  there are shadows  or fog, also at sunset
the object observed is  hard  to see lacking contrast,
or because we are too  low  or hot.

DISTANCE APPEAR SHORTER:

Than  they are if: the terrain is flat, or weather is
real clear (after  rain or storm), or just before and
just after the  sunset or if you observe over a water area.

Or  if  there  is  a  colour contrast between  the
object under observation  and the background or when we
observe from  a  high point, or above a valley or if snow.

Now  the  quick evaluation of distance is not the only
habit  to acquire  but  also  to learn to estimate in one
quick  look  the surface & quantities, to evaluate weight
and time.

SURFACES:

We evaluate them by comparing with known spaces that we
know well after we have well taken the measurements of
their sizes.

Then  we  check  precisely and we calculate  the  surface.
First evaluate  with  your eye then evaluate by comparison
then  check your measures.

QUANTITIES:

Evaluate  also by trial and verification till errors are
minimal. Check with scale for ration.

WEIGHTS:

Estimates by comparing with a known weight & holding the
other one in the right hand then change.

Start  with mid heavy weight and to well know those of 1lb
and  1 kg and 5lb - 5kg then learn to master weight of 10
grams (letter) to 20-30 kg.

TIME AND DURATION:

Their  evaluation comes from a wide range of knowledge
and habits where enters; the habit to evaluate the hour
by the sun, moon  or star.

The  habit  which  becomes instinctive to know the
darkening  or increasing  shadow of the scenery, length
and rhythm of step, the memory  of  the effort to do the
task, of the distance travelled, weather conditions,
sense of rhythm to count the seconds, you can count out
loud, 331, 332, 333 ...

In  stressing on the 1 and 2 and 3 that tells you the
number  of seconds' past.

Control  with a watch until you find a good rhythm, when
relaxing you will have a tendency slowly, when excited
times come you will count a little too fast because of
hearth beat.

MONK! METHOD TO MEASURE TIME:

Using  prayer, a Rosary or 5 decades takes about 15
minutes when said slowly! A full Rosary would take about
45 minutes to 1 hour, ask  a  catholic on that. 1 Hail
Mary takes only 15  sec.  1  Our Father: 25 sec.

2 USEFUL THINGS TO LEARN ABOUT TIME MEASUREMENTS:

DISTANCES MEASURES:

To  measure a distance; sounds travel at the speed of 330
meter per second approximate.

The interval in seconds and fractions of seconds are
multiply  by 330  will give you the distances in meter
the echo gives you  the double of distance.

DEPTH MEASURES:

To  measure  a  depth, measure the interval of  time  in
seconds between the moment where you drop a stone down
the hole that  you want  to measure and the moment where
you hear the shock  of  the stone in the bottom hole.

Here  are  from  0.5  sec  to  3.5 sec  the  distances
travelled approximately by a free falling stone.

0.5 sec = 1.20m; 1 sec.= 5m.; 1.5 sec = 11m; 2 sec = 19m;
2.5 sec = 30m; 3 sec = 44m; 3.5 sec = 60 meters = Boum!

EYE COMPASS:

You  have to create the habit by trial and error to
evaluate the approximate measures and to do so quickly.

There  are  a great number of geometric procedures of
estimate that are all based on the proportional sizes in
similar triangle.

The  drawing  in  this  chapter will give  you  some
method and procedures  that we can vary as soon as we
have Understood? The very simple geometric principles
upon which they are based.

By using the proportions it permits you to tie #relier#,
the real width  of an object, the distance from where you
see it, and  the angle it takes which is a Compass Eye is
all about!

Suppose  that you are looking at the Game Keeper house or
Forest Ranger, if you really have it in the  eye  you
follow this thought;

This house of average seems small compare to the distance
because of the farness #eloignement#.

And  with  practice  you  will find  at  what  distance
MUST  be situated  a  house of this size to seem so
small, be  seen  under such a small angle.

If you want to fix the angle of your eye compass, the
most simple means  and  way to do so, is the one that you
use to #fixe#  the opening of an angle on a compass.

For  ex; 1cm. -- But under the condition that you
indicate, show, the  length  of  the compass' branches;
for ex; 25cm. The  angle measure is = 1cm to 25cm.

That  same angle of your eye compass equally measures 2cm
to 50cm or 2m to 50m; 20 to 500m....

It   is   perfectly   defined  by  the  equal   reports
between (width/distance)#*;2/50cm.--2/50m.-20/500m 1/25.

For this angle, the distance ALWAYS will be equal to 25
times the width of the observed building or object = X 25.

This  is done in order to better our eye compass so as to
be able to indicate with precision the apparent angle of
the object under observation under the form or the
proportion* (width/distance) of this angle.

REMEMBER that holding a pen at arm length is approximately
at  50 cm  from your eye. 1 cigarette is 7cm. Thus if you
grade in 1/2cm you will be able to define the # angle de
rapport# 1/100.

You MUST create the habit to use fluently the angles of
1/100 and their #multiples# that are more practical,
useful for us.

The ruler or better the #grill# (where each square being
fixed in width & height of #angle de rapport# of 1/100)
will give us  more precise indications.

A  ruler  divided  in "cm and mm" * held at  50cm  from
the eye (string  fixed to a button held between the teeth)
gives between each 1/2cm and angle of 1/100 and between
each * MM., an angle of 2/1000 or 0.2/100

An angle of 1/100 = 0 degree 34' or 0.5gr. and angle of 10
degree gives approximately a #rapport# of 18/100

The angle of a slope is usually given in % (a slope that
rises of 1m  per  100m  gives  an  angle of 1/100  in
relation  with the horizon).

The  height of the eyes is sensibly equal to a double
usual foot step  so  in order to make an horizontal aim at
the eye's  height just  walk till the aim #visee meets the
slope (pente)# thus  you will  obtain a number of double
step: 100/X -- angle in  %  (--in 1/100).

ARMY EVALUATION DISTANCES:

In the German army the rules given to judge the distances are:

At 50m: One sees clearly they mouth and eyes of a man. /
At 100m: The  eyes look like dots. / At 200m: We still see
the buttons and the details of the clothing.

At 300m: We still distinguish the face of a man./ At 400m:
We see the  legs moving. / At 500m. We still can
distinguish the  colour of the uniform.

FAST  MEANS TO MEASURE APPROXIMATELY UNREACHABLE HEIGHT:
(TREESBUILDINGS)

1st. METHOD:

Stick  a  tree  at  some distance from the tree foot.  Aim
while leaning down the tip of the tree or building in such
a way as  to see it coincide with the tip of the stick.

Move the stick if need be farther back. (Stick should be
at least 4-5ft.) The height will be S. X. D ./. O.

S =	Height of the stick.
D=	Distance between the eye and the foot of the tree.
O= 	Distance between the aiming point and the stick.

VARIATION # 1:

If  there  is sunshine, we proceed in similar fashion by
placing the  stick and in measuring the respective shadow
of the tree and of the stick.

The  formula is similar: if AB the height of the tree to
measure, and  if  AC  length of the tree's shadow measured
with  a  scaled rope,  &  ED  the height of the stick, and
DF the length  of  the shadow's stick we thus obtain: AB =
AC X ED / DF.

VARIATION # 2:

Measure 18m. from the foot of the tree, fix a stick in the
ground at  point 18m. then at 2m. from the stick, while
leaning  on  the ground.  Aim at the tip of the tree so as
to be able  to  measure the  height  of #ligne de visee le
long du stick#; 10 times  this height  will  give  you
the height of the tree  without  further calculation.

The triangle base being 10 times greater than that of the
smaller one.  (20m.  & 2m.) Evidently the height to
measure will  be  10 times the one of the #cursor above
ground.# (H=10h). *

NOTE:  To gain time, we will move the #cursor# while
aiming using a  helper, a friend. Place the aiming eye as
close to the  ground as possible to get better reading.

2ND METHOD:

Place  at the foot of a tree or against a building, an
object  of known dimension, your walking stick for example.

Holding  yourself  at  a  distance at least  the  double
of the presumed height count using a pen held at arm's
length the number of units of the (stick) which would be
contained in the height to be measured.

NOTE:      In reality the measured length is that of the
#arc  de circle tangent to the object# being measured.

Thus  we commit a small error but this one will be lessen
if  we place  ourselves  higher  than the  base  of  the
object  to  be measured.

3rd METHOD:

Take  a square paper a, b, c, d; fold it in the diagonal
CD, near C prick a needle E.*

Now join *AB by a string to which you will hang a stone
P.* If we hold the # viseur# by the needle, the CA side
will be vertical  # (fil  a plomb)# and the diagonal CD*
will make a 45 degree  angle with the ground.

Aim  the tip of the tree with the diagonal CD while going
forward or backward in order to spot (determine) A*.

Then  measure the distance of that point to the foot of
the tree B*. Add to this distance the height of the eye
above the foot  of the object to measure (*h) thus: AB =h = L*.

4th METHOD:

Place  on the ground a vase full of water "M"* Place
yourself  in such  way  that we see the summit "S"* of the
object  to  measure being reflected in the water in "M".

The  law of reflection of light makes it that the angles X
and  Y are  equals.  Now  measure the distances A & B. Now
measure  "h" height of the eye above the ground we obtain:
H= h X A ./. B.

NOTE:   If a terrain is in slope this method is false.
	Don't use it.

DISTANCES:

The sound travels 330m. per sec. A far off noise that you
can see the  visual  start (Industrial whistle) permits us
to  calculate immediately the distance by counting the
exact number of  seconds that the sound takes to reach our ears.

In mountain the echo permits to measure very exactly the
distance of a rock face.

WIDTH OF RIVER: 1ST METHOD:

Plant a stick MAKING SURE that they are  at  exact right
angle #angle droits# Now on AC perpendicular to AP (AP-L)
takes a point B so that AB = BC.

Now  aim PB & #prolonger.# The perpendicular in AC in C
#cuts  PB in  D# = AP = L ?#* See Pix 131*photo how to
built a #right angle /angle droit.#.

2ND METHOD:

Plant  a  stick A in front of #repere# * P situated on the
other side of the river.

Measure  a  perpendicular distance superior to 1/10 the
presumed width of the river then plant another peg B.

Back-up  away  from  the  river in the #alignment#  of  AP
on  a distance  of at least 1/4 of the presumed width of
the river  the plant C peg. Plant a last peg D behind * B
in the alignment of  P and perpendicularly to C.

The width of the river will be give by the formula: 
L = AC X AB ./. CD-AB.

NOTE:   The length CD-AB is very small thus it has
	to be measured very strictly.

3RD METHOD Napoleon's Hat:

Facing  the other side of the river, lower your hat on
your face until  the  rim of your hat nearly hides the
aimed point  on  the other side of the river.

Then  without moving your head, on the right or on the
left then find  #repere# on your side of the river where
is  #le point  du terrain# seen at the rim of your hat.

In other word you carry over this distance across to your
left or right  side  to locate a fix, which would
represent the  distance across  to the other side of the
river. Now measure this distance from your feet to this
#point de repere.#

In  flat  terrain  the length found is the width of the
river.  A helper moving with a stick would permit to
quickly determine  the distance D to measure. 
If you check D = L.

HOW TO CONSTRUCT A RIGHT ANGLE ON THE GROUND:

We  want  to  make at point B on a base AB a
#perpendicular vise /aim#.

1)	Mark B with a small peg*
2)	Fold in 2 a rope & mark its middle by a knot N*

3)	Put  the ends of the rope to A & B, the distance  AB
	being whatever  you want. Stretch the rope thus tying
	farther the  knot that you fix with a small peg.

4)    Bring  the  B  end to point C so that  ANC  is  an
      in straight line. The angle ABC is at right angle.